algae · both tank

GHA (Green Hair Algae)

GHA (Green Hair Algae) is filamentous green algae that grows in long strands on rock + glass. The most common nuisance algae in established marine tanks; signal of phosphate excess or nutrient imbalance.

Reviewed by Fast Aquatics husbandry team · Updated May 2026
Severity: Mild cosmetic - rarely lethal

Symptoms

What causes it

Excess phosphate (>0.05 ppm), excess light photoperiod, or nutrient imbalance from new live rock.

Treatment options

Always treat in a separate quarantine tank.

Manual removal + flow. Pull out by hand during water changes; toothbrush smaller patches. Increase flow to discourage regrowth.
Reduce phosphate. Run GFO in a reactor; target PO4 <0.05 ppm. Most effective long-term solution.
Algae-eating CUC. Add turbo snails, emerald crabs, lawnmower blenny, or kole tang. They eat GHA but won't outpace a fed bloom alone.
Reduce photoperiod. Cut lighting from 10 hours to 6-8 hours during the bloom; restore once cleared.

Prevention

Maintain low phosphate, balanced photoperiod, strong CUC, regular water changes.

Frequently asked questions

What does GHA (Green Hair Algae) look like?

Long stringy green strands attached to rock or glass. Tufts of bright green growth. Smothering corals on rockwork.

What causes GHA (Green Hair Algae)?

Excess phosphate (>0.05 ppm), excess light photoperiod, or nutrient imbalance from new live rock.

How is GHA (Green Hair Algae) treated?

Manual removal + flow: Pull out by hand during water changes; toothbrush smaller patches. Increase flow to discourage regrowth.

Can GHA (Green Hair Algae) be prevented?

Maintain low phosphate, balanced photoperiod, strong CUC, regular water changes.

How fatal is GHA (Green Hair Algae)?

Mild cosmetic - rarely lethal

Related

Browse the full disease database for 45 aquarium conditions with treatment protocols, or check the care library for prevention-focused husbandry guides. Use our symptom matcher to rank likely diseases from observed signs, the water parameter checker to diagnose related water-quality issues, or the QT timeline calculator to plan a treatment schedule.

Aquarium-keeping fundamentals

Whatever specific topic brought you here, four fundamentals govern long-term aquarium success: water quality, parameter stability, biological filtration, and species-appropriate husbandry. Skip any one and the others struggle to compensate.

Water quality: ammonia + nitrite at zero, nitrate under 30 ppm freshwater + 10 ppm reef. Test weekly with API or Salifert kits. Use our water parameter checker to score your readings against your tank type.

Parameter stability: stable wrong parameters beat fluctuating ideal parameters. Most fish tolerate a wide pH range if it's stable. Sudden swings of 0.4+ pH or 5+°F kill fish faster than chronic suboptimal values. Use temperature controllers (Inkbird) + automated dosing for consistency.

Biological filtration: the bacterial colony on your filter media + rock + substrate is the engine. Never replace all media at once. Use our filter turnover calculator to size correctly.

Species-appropriate husbandry: research adult size, territoriality, diet, and tankmate compatibility before purchase. Use our tank stocking calculator + compatibility guides.

Frequently asked questions

How long does an aquarium take to set up? 4-6 weeks for full cycling + first stocking. Use our cycle ETA calculator + how long does cycling take.

What's the best aquarium for beginners? 20-gallon long. Big enough for parameter stability, small enough for budget + space. See beginner picks.

How often should I do water changes? 25-30% weekly. See water change frequency Q&A + water change calculator.

Why does my fish keep dying? 5 leading causes: uncycled tank, wrong species pairings, no quarantine, undersized tank, neglected water-change schedule. See full diagnosis.

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